Rocks, trees and fish are major contributors to our provincial economy and, along with our labour and stewardship, make for great parks. Given the activist history of the downtown east side ("DTES"), it is fitting to visit some of its parks this Labour Day weekend. The DTES is the cradle of BC's labour movement, and the neighbourhood's current state reminds us of the importance of the labour movement's fruits which include medicare and pensions. The DTES today showcases creative initiatives that may yet heal its fragile and fractious community.
As early as 175 years ago the area now known as the DTES was a marshland that connected False Creek to the Burrard Inlet. Cedar trees populated the area so thickly that they obscured the view of the inlet. Milling was one of Vancouver's first industries. Following the loggers and the mill workers came one of the area's first of a long line of drinking establishments. In 1867 Gassy Jack established a bar in a small settlement named in his honour: Gastown. Gassy Jack made sure it was as close to Stamp's Mill (at what is now the foot of Gore street) as it could be.
As more and more people settled, other industries sprang up throughout the area and the newly forming province. Ship building, railroading, fishing and mining prospered, most often on the backs exploited labour. The Chinese rail workers, no longer in demand after the 1885 completion of the railroad, were among the first to settle on the periphery of the DTES. They were followed by miners and loggers, who spent their time off from the hardships of dangerous work in extreme wilderness conditions in the area's cheap hotels, opium dens bars and brothels. Eventually the hard life would catch up with these folks and by the ripe old age of 40 they would be 'used up" often due to injury and disability and would return to what was rapidly becoming skid row. By the 1930s skid row was in full vigor as these men and woman were joined by thousands more from all walks of life during the great depression. Eventually, through organizing and literal blood sweat and tears, the labour movement was born in BC. The Battle of Balentine Pier, a bloody affair at the foot of what is now Heatley St in 1935, was what many consider the catalyst for the On to Ottawa Trek. In 1935 an unsuccessful dockworkers' strike ended in a violent confrontation at Balentine Pier. Some workers occupied the Carnegie Centre, a government building at that time, and over several weeks they were joined by thousands of relief camp refugees. Along the eastward journey thousands more joined their ranks. The government viewed the trek as an insurgency and stopped it with violent force in Regina. But the seeds of a union movement had been planted and the collective consciousness of many Canadians had turned toward social democracy.
Ups and downs, booms, busts and protests continued in the DTES as depicted in the 1971 Stan Douglas photo below. The photo's background is the site of the Woodward's Department Store that opened in 1892 and closed in 1992. After much community activism the site was reopened in 2009 as a mix of social and public housing, educational, recreational , artistic, not for profit and market space combined. Just down the street, the iconic Save On Meats has reopened and followed suit: the butcher shop now also houses a restaurant and business space that is inexpensive and available to anyone willing to establish a skill building for-profit enterprise that will provide the area's hard hit residents with employment. Guy Fieri of Diners, Drive ins and Dives fame was just in town and he hit several joints in the neighborhood, including Save On Meats, for his first show taped outside the USA to be shown later this season on the Food Network.
That does not mean the area is now trouble free. Just days ago police issued a warning that seniors and PWDs are being preyed upon by some very desperate criminals. Drugs and prostitution are rampant. Be very cautious if you are in the area day or night. If you don't live there or are not familiar with the area don't be there at night. Still, if it's within your comfort level it's worth a daytime visit.
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| This photo hangs in the lobby of the new Woodwards building |
Andy Livingston Park, on Expo Boulevard and Carroll St, borders Vancouver's Yaletown to the west and the DTES on the east. The park is very accessible with lots of paved pathways, places to sit, basketball court, washrooms, playing fields and a children's play area all of which are wheelchair friendly. Park entrances are at well marked crosswalks with audible signals, and way finding is very well marked throughout the DTES.
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| Rippling water fountain |
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Crab Park at Port Side is spectacular. Its waterfront vista offers great city skyline views and has lots of amenities.
Until next time Happy Labour Day.
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| Port of Vancouver |
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| Bridge overpass |
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| Wheel chair access from the foot of Main St |
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| Subtle and not so subtle reminders of the extreme poverty in the area |
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